Hate Rust? Here’s How to Keep Your Classic Car from Rusting
If you’re a classic car lover then this article should help you…
Unlike many of the new cars in production currently, some of which have the bodies and metal parts dipped a zinc-coating or anti-corrosion primers… One of the best car manufacturers out there for protecting the bodies is Porsche. They were way ahead of the curve.
Unfortunately the classic and muscle cars, when they were built back in the day by the Big 3, they used very little sealer and virtually no paint on the undersides.
Below is how to keep your envy-inspiring dream machine from, slowly but surely, turning into a rust bucket:
First of all, if you are just building and restoring a car, then you are going to be able to take different steps than someone who already owns a complete car.
These steps are if you are building a car and what to do as you are building it to prevent it from rusting away due to moisture.
Below you will see my weapons in the war against rust when I restore a classic or muscle car:
- PPG DP90 Epoxy
PPG makes an awesome product that has been out for a long time. When we do media blasting on the frames and the underside of the bodies, DP90 is a nice Epoxy Primer that comes in black which is awesome for the chassis and steel bodies. This would be my first line of defense. Of course then at that point, it will be refinished in whatever color we are shooting the chassis and undersides.
- Debeer Primer
The Debeer Primer is the best I’ve seen in 34 years. We started using this primer about 10 years ago. What turned me onto it was that it was a very heavy, high-build primer that came in black, white, and buff. Most high-end automotive finish paint companies don’t offer high-solids urethane black primer (which is absolutely necessary if you plan on having your high-end job laser straight after body work).
- 3M Bare Metal Seam Sealer & 3M Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer
The 3M bare metal seam sealer is, believe it or not, on the 64-70 Ford Mustangs and the 67-69 Camaros, the factory did horrible with sealing the cars. This let water come in from the inside and from underneath. We use the 3M bare metal seam sealer in certain areas and then we use the heavy bodied seam sealer where were are filling big voids.
- RusFre (brand) Clear Inner Panel Undercoating
This is really good stuff to shoot inside:
- Inner panels
- Inside Quarter Panels
- Inner Front Fenders
- Inside Wheel Wells
- Inside Rocker Panels
- Even Inside Frame Rails
This is basically like the old war days when they used to shoot the cosmoline on the military Jeeps so that they wouldn’t rust on the transport ships overseas.
Pay Careful Attention to Underside and Wheel Areas.
Due to the accumulation of mud, sand, road salt, and everything else on the road – rust is likely to target your classic car’s underside and wheel areas. Pay special attention to these spots.
Also, be careful when using a high-pressure washer, as these can remove the protective under seal.
We suggest rinsing out your cars when you get them dirty and make sure to keep dirt out of the wheel wells. You can even use a blow-gun to blow-dry the car when you’re done to remove the water from behind the stainless moldings and whatnot.
I’m sure everyone has heard of the Mother’s Spray mist where if the cars not dirty just give it a little mist and wipe it down. This keeps your car dry.
The smartest and best way you can keep your classic car looking and running beautifully for years to come is by befriending with a classic car restoration specialist in Florida.
You’ll get the expert advice you need to keep rust and other threats at bay.
And just as importantly, you can be assured that you’ll be supported by a team that cares as much about classic cars as you do.
If you’ve landed yourself a car that needs a tetanus shot – check out our new replacement steel bodies and chassis. Sometimes getting a new body is the best way to go.
If you’ve landed yourself a rot box Click Here to Learn More About Steel Body Replacements for your Classic and Muscle car restoration.