’67 Mustang Fastbacks @ Our Classic and Muscle Car Restoration Shop in Florida
July 25, 2017
We don't see many CJ5s anymore, so when this one came into the shop at Palm Beach Customs we were excited.
This 1980 CJ5 restoration that came to us from Bonita Springs, Florida is almost buttoned up! See some of the progress photos below and come back later for updates.
(Just an FYI, the pictures are in chronological order so the newest will be at the top! )
It's a Jeep thing, we understand.
If you have a CJ in need of some TLC...
New stainless steel exhaust was put on - looking good ...
After paint and the bed liner, this CJ5 Jeep is ready for the final buff!
This 1980 CJ-5 restoration is ready for the spray on bed liner. We always suggest going with this option for the CJ Jeeps because it protects the tub and is easy to wash out after a day in the elements 🙂
New head light lenses and bezels have been put on after we painted the grill. We also installed the new fender flares, the park lights, bliner lights, and other pieces that could go on.
Below is the Windshield cowl going on to the bottom of the CJ5 Jeep window frame before we mount it to the Jeep. A note to our DIY Jeepers - the new rubber will always make it a little difficult to screw the windsheild back onto the body... So make sure you have a few people who can pull down on the windshield while the other gets the screws into place!
The windshield is almost ready to go on with new glass from Accurate Auto Glass, visors, rear view mirror, and weatherstripping.
Once the CJ5 Jeep was dry we moved it back into the prep bay so that we could put on the hood tie downs, lights, and flares.
The name of this awesome paint color is "Forest Green Metallic"... pictures and fluorescent lights just don't do it justice. Can't wait to see it in the sun!
Here's the Jeep ready for paint in our prep bay - it has been sanded down and primed with Valspar black primer. The taped off, wiped down with "wax and grease" remover, and then gone over with a tac rag.
We taped up the inside even though we are going to shoot a spray on bed liner later because it keeps any dust from kicking up - a little extra effort here saves a lot of time on the other end.
All the little parts get repainted or replaced as well - we've got seat brackets, license plate bracket, the jack, and we even do the screws
Before painting the tub, we painted the inner fenders, firewall, and grill support...
The original straight 6, 258 engine -- complete tune up, new battery, new starter, new clutch, and pressure plate, fly wheel with z-bar, ready for Round II 🙂
New BF Goodrich All Terrain tires have been mounted and balanced onto the original rims that we cleaned up and painted black. These are great tires for the Jeeper who wants to hit the pavement and something off the beaten path every once in a while.
You can see that we steam cleaned and undercoated under this CJ5 Jeep - and this was a phenomenally clean Jeep. We just went "WOW" once we started taking it apart because some of the pieces still looked almost new!
New shocks, leaf springs, and body mounts give this 1980 CJ-5 restoration from Bonita Springs Florida
All new body mounts....
Complete new set of Pro Comp leaf springs for a meaty 2.5-inch lift to allow for the BFG KO-2s, 33X12.5 tires.
Saftey is key when building any restoration, especially with vehicles that have seen 30+ years. So we are redoing all the body mounts, u-bolts, leaf springs, shocks, brakes, tires, etc.
Our client went with the tan seats and we were able to hook him up the Smittybuilt front bucket seats over at Quadratec (along with most of the other parts)
New tail light lenses make all the difference and go into every CJ Jeep restoration that we do:
You've reached the end (or beginning) of this project! If you want to see some more, we think you'll like to see these 3 other CJ-7 Jeeps we've restored.... Click Here to head on over.
Below you’ll find some tips that might seem a little basic for an experienced classic or muscle car owner, but for beginners, we hope they’ll be helpful as sometimes these things are overlooked.
Owning a classic muscle car is a point of pride, and so you should do everything you can in order to keep it in the best shape possible.
Classic muscle cars are different than their newer counterparts, and as such, they have different requirements when it comes to taking care of them. While the things you need to do for your specific car will vary there are some basic, simple tips that apply for all classic and muscle car care.
TIPS TO CARE FOR YOUR CLASSIC MUSCLE CARS FROM OUR SHOP FOR MUSCLE CAR RESTORATION NEAR NAPLES FLORIDA
After spending time and a small fortune investing in a classic car, the next thing that you have to make sure of is that the car is properly cared for. If you are a real car enthusiast, you will feel the commitment and responsibilities that you owe these classic cars. You have to look after your car to make sure that it are going to last for a long time and the value won't diminish through the years.
So what do you have to do as a responsible owner to look after your classic muscle car?
Here are tips to care for your classic muscle car:
People buy classic muscles cars not only for how they run, but for how they look. Owning a muscle car that looks old and rusted is missing the point. So if you are going to own a muscle car, you should take the opportunity to give it a good detailing.
Give it a good washing – including underneath – and then apply a coat of wax after a buff. You want your car to look its best. A thorogh detailing takes a bit of skill, time, and elbow grease but it's worth it.
Classic Muscle cars are not meant to be in extreme weather. If the temperatures near you get very hot, or very cold, you will want to get your car away from them.
Storing your car in a garage is the best way to keep it away from the elements, and out of direct sunlight.
Who knows, maybe your car will end up like this 1969 Corvette!
If the temperatures are going to be fine, and you are able to store your car outdoors, you will still want to get a good cover for it. Don’t allow the wind and sunlight to damage your car by getting soft cotton, or other recommended cover.
If you don’t plan on driving the car for a while, it is a good idea to open up the windows underneath the cover to allow for better air circulation. Cover your car each time you are done with it to protect it from any debris that may be flying around.
As a new classic/muscle car owner, you might be tempted to save a little bit of money by buying or using parts of less quality. While we always want you to look for the best deal - at Palm Beach Customs we never use an untrustworthy brand.
Try to stick with Made in USA, well-known brands (like Edlebrock for engine and carb), and reproduction parts licensed by Ford, GM, or Mopar.
Depending on your car, some parts may be hard to come by and so the cost skyrockets - but don't be shocked. Make sure to do your research and always choose quality over quantity.
Lastly, it is important that you take your car out for a regular drive. You do not want your car sitting for too long, or you could experience some problems. A quick 30-minute drive each month is probably enough to ensure that your car does not corrode and that the fluids remain okay.
If you are unable to find the time to drive it, you should at least start your car a few times a month and allow it to run for a few minutes.
Classic and Muscle cars can be great to own, but only if you take proper care of them. This means you have to have a little pride in your car! But you wouldn't be here if you didn't, would you 🙂
Using the tips mentioned above you should be able to keep your car looking great, and driving well too.
While these methods certainly won’t prevent your car from breaking, and they won’t prevent every issue, they are a good start when it comes to caring for your muscle and classic car.
DO YOU NEED TO CARE FOR YOUR MUSCLE CAR? BRING IT TO OUR SHOP FOR MUSCLE CAR RESTORATION NEAR NAPLES FLORIDA.
At Palm Beach, Our passion is to deliver the best for our customers. How do you care for your classic or muscle car? Let us know in the comments!
You might also be interested in read this post about the Buick GSX we restored.
Need a little expert help caring for your car? We'd love to help!
This 1977 Renegade is an automatic with a 304 V8 engine. We say this about all the Jeeps that come through, but seriously, this one might be our favorite!
This is your chance to own a really nice Jeep.
This Jeep has absolutely no rust! The factory chalk markings were still on the frame when it arrived from California.
We steam cleaned underneath and painted with black undercoating. The body has been painted with professional grade, high-quality urethane primer, high-grade urethane base coat, and high solids clear coat.
The roll bars, front, and rear bumpers were base-coated black and satin clear.
Inside of the tub was coated with a spray-on bed liner, dash and hardtop were painted a gunmetal gray,
and original rims have been two-toned black and gray.
This Jeep has the original 304 V8 automatic engine that has been completely gone through with a fresh rebuild.
Re-machined block with all new pistons, new cam and lifters, timing chain, heads all redone, fresh tune up, brand new carb, and electric distributer with 8mm wires.
The engine was broken in with Lucas Break-in oil. Has a new MagnaFlo muffler, ranchero shocks,
and a mild 2 inch lift kit.
We built this as a good driver.
If there’s something that you want added to the Jeep, it’s not a problem. Just let us know – a custom winch, stereo, etc. we would be happy to work you to make this Jeep what you want.
Contact with any Questions:
Watch the video below and check out the pictures.
Here it is with the gunmetal grey top and hard doors installed...
Comes with the Halogen headlights in the front. Sure beats the orginal Jeep bulbs 🙂
Has a full roll bar ....
Here is the spray-on bedliners on the floors...
Comes with stock back seat ....
All new tailgate gasket with spray-on bedliner for easy clean up.
Brand new front windsheild installed with new windshield weather stripping...
See the pile of goodies: complete door weather strip kit, cowl weather strip kit, and full light lense kit!
Brand new door window channels...
Brand new inner door-to-body weatherstrips...
Here are the outer belt molding weatherstrips....
And the door all completed ready to be installed!
Hope you enjoyed going through this 1977 CJ-7 Jeep Restoration build pictures and videos above.
If you’re a classic car lover then this article should help you…
Unlike many of the new cars in production currently, some of which have the bodies and metal parts dipped a zinc-coating or anti-corrosion primers… One of the best car manufacturers out there for protecting the bodies is Porsche. They were way ahead of the curve.
Unfortunately the classic and muscle cars, when they were built back in the day by the Big 3, they used very little sealer and virtually no paint on the undersides.
Below is how to keep your envy-inspiring dream machine from, slowly but surely, turning into a rust bucket:
First of all, if you are just building and restoring a car, then you are going to be able to take different steps than someone who already owns a complete car.
These steps are if you are building a car and what to do as you are building it to prevent it from rusting away due to moisture.
Below you will see my weapons in the war against rust when I restore a classic or muscle car:
PPG makes an awesome product that has been out for a long time. When we do media blasting on the frames and the underside of the bodies, DP90 is a nice Epoxy Primer that comes in black which is awesome for the chassis and steel bodies. This would be my first line of defense. Of course then at that point, it will be refinished in whatever color we are shooting the chassis and undersides.
The Debeer Primer is the best I've seen in 34 years. We started using this primer about 10 years ago. What turned me onto it was that it was a very heavy, high-build primer that came in black, white, and buff. Most high-end automotive finish paint companies don't offer high-solids urethane black primer (which is absolutely necessary if you plan on having your high-end job laser straight after body work).
The 3M bare metal seam sealer is, believe it or not, on the 64-70 Ford Mustangs and the 67-69 Camaros, the factory did horrible with sealing the cars. This let water come in from the inside and from underneath. We use the 3M bare metal seam sealer in certain areas and then we use the heavy bodied seam sealer where were are filling big voids.
This is basically like the old war days when they used to shoot the cosmoline on the military Jeeps so that they wouldn't rust on the transport ships overseas.
Due to the accumulation of mud, sand, road salt, and everything else on the road - rust is likely to target your classic car’s underside and wheel areas. Pay special attention to these spots.
Also, be careful when using a high-pressure washer, as these can remove the protective under seal.
We suggest rinsing out your cars when you get them dirty and make sure to keep dirt out of the wheel wells. You can even use a blow-gun to blow-dry the car when you're done to remove the water from behind the stainless moldings and whatnot.
I'm sure everyone has heard of the Mother's Spray mist where if the cars not dirty just give it a little mist and wipe it down. This keeps your car dry.
The smartest and best way you can keep your classic car looking and running beautifully for years to come is by befriending with a classic car restoration specialist in Florida.
You’ll get the expert advice you need to keep rust and other threats at bay.
And just as importantly, you can be assured that you’ll be supported by a team that cares as much about classic cars as you do.
If you’ve landed yourself a car that needs a tetanus shot – check out our new replacement steel bodies and chassis. Sometimes getting a new body is the best way to go.
If you've landed yourself a rot box Click Here to Learn More About Steel Body Replacements for your Classic and Muscle car restoration.
Whether you are starting from scratch with a new classic or muscle car build or have found yourself with an original body, ensuring that you have the best frame for your dream ride is the way to go.
Pair Your Steel Body with the options below:
Palm Beach Customs has been in the automotive business for over 30 years - we have experience in heavy-hit collision repair along with our high-end restorations - and we can tell you that having a good frame is on of the single most important components of a safe, smooth riding car.
Art Morrison has been building chassis for over 40 years and they make top quality chassis and suspension that not only give your old car the handling of a modern vehicle, but are also safe.
These chassis are custom built to order for each customer to meet their needs and wants.
When looking to buy a steel cab for the chevy truck, we have 3 different options. The doors differ between the 47-50, 52-54, and 55-57 and so you’ll have to decide which year and door style you like best!
Keep in mind when you’re purchasing your 1947-1957 Chevy truck steel bodies that they do not come with glass, window moldings or door hardware. If you’re in need of these items, get in touch with us, and we can point you in the right direction.
There are 2 options:
Take a look at them in the store
Looking to relive your childhood or be a part of the American muscle car crowd? Getting into a new steel body for your 1970 Challenger project build is a great start.
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The 1970 Challenger steel bodies that we sell are Mopar Licensed and manufactured to factory specs. They are built better than they were originally with more weld spots and thick gauge metal.
The ’70 Challenger only comes in the coupe body style.
If you’re looking to build a 1970 Challenger we highly recommend going with a solid foundation of an Art Morrison Chassis and Suspension. Go Here to Check Out the MaxG Chassis
Get in Touch with Us if You Have Any Questions or Would Like to Order
Did you know that we build out these steel bodies too? Save yourself the hassle and let the Palm Beach Customs experts build you a muscle car >> Learn More About Builds Here <<
Some times when you want to get into a muscle car from the good ‘ol days it’s better to just start from the ground up with a new steel body. This can not only save you money, but it’s safer too.
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Palm Beach Customs only uses the highest quality products in our muscle car restoration shop in Ocala Florida and this is especially true for the steel bodies. After 30 years, we’ve had our fill of putty and paint!
The 1970 Chevelle Steel Bodies that we work with are GM Licensed manufactured to factory specs. They are built better than they were originally with more weld spots and thick gauge metal.
The ’70 Chevelle only comes in the coupe body style, but you do have 3 different choices for the fire-wall:
If you’re looking to build a 1970 Chevelle we highly recommend going with an Art Morrison Chassis and Suspension. Go Here to Check Out the Chevelle Chassis
Get in Touch with Us if You Have Any Questions or Would Like to Order
All Henry OEM Original Steel Car
Rolling Project with engine and trans Great start start for experienced Hot-Roders
California Car with clear California Title
Car Is Located in Ocala Florida 34470
Car was taken apart and media blasted
all metal has been sealed
.. see pictures
(Car is assembled – see pictures )
Roof has been filled and metal worked
all fenders are original
except for right rear which is a new bob drake-reproduction..
New Direct Sheetmetal Fire wall Installed and
New Floor 14 gauge Very Clean Look Underneath
Chassis Blasted & painted black satin
Fresh 350 CI Chevrolet Engine Block code
3970014 ( 68-79)
Edelbrock intake & Webber Carb
Rebuilt 350 Transmission
with a new 2200 stall converter
Brass walker radiator
New coated block hugger headers with collectors
New steel gas tank & electric Fuel pump
all new fuel lines that have been plumed
New leaf springs New 9 inch ford Rear
with 350 Posi traction
& new drum brakes
New super bell front axel with new springs
& – Gm disc Brakes
New duel GM Master Cyl
7 inch power booster
all brake lines have been installed
see pictures on the lift
Running boards are Nice
all bolted on with brackets and into OEM locations
——-Include but not installed ——-
glass and window regulators ( fair shape )
(I would buy a glass kit for $375.00)
see pictures 🙂
Original Gauges Head lights
tail lights garnish moldings and head liner bows
front and rear bumper brackets with OEM bumpers ..
Hood and hood sides are in great shape
Have all new Metal panels that are needed
2 rockers , quarters
1 door bottom inner and outer
along with Steve’s restoration deck lid
All metal work completed perfectly…
still some work left to do
Sheetmetal to complete the car is included
New direct sheet metal firewall
14 Gauge floors rear floor tubs perfect originals
Rear floor tubs perfect originals
Hidden Door Hinges Done Right
This is a nice start for someone
350 hours in labor and 15,000
in parts already put in this Hot Rod
most of hard work
has been done as you can see !
(body paint wiring -glass and interior)
If you are a Buyer that can finish metal work
which is very close .. Great
If you are looking To purchase
and Have body and paint done?
You Can contact me I restore Cars
( the last picture of course is an example
everything is included
in the pictures
Car Is Located in Ocala Florida –
Its in enclosed, dry storage
will deliver Up To 500 miles from 34470
In enclosed Trailer for reasonable Price
Further we can work your Shipper
or recommend a shipper if you are out in the snow belt
Once Auction Ends Payment Is Due – Once Funds Clear
Title will be fed-ex with tracking to you
car can stay in storage no charge for 90 days
if that Helps
( but car must be paid in full ) at end of auction
We will be more than happy to do our very best to answer any questions or concerns
no matter how minor you may think they are.
Just call or email us before bidding, if you have any Questions
Available for viewing with appointment 7 days week 12 noon – 9 pm
Car is listed locally, Auction could end at any time
This is a restoration Project
Email or call
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