3 Things to Consider When Restoring Classic and Muscle Cars

JohnBody and Paint, Classic Car Restoration, Muscle Car RestorationApril 6, 20170 Comment

What to Look for When Restoring Classic and Muscle Cars

 

If you’re crazy about classic and muscle car restoration in Ft. Myers Florida, you know how many headaches just one restoration can cause you.

 

 

How Much Does a Classic and Muscle Car Restoration Cost?

 

 

 

Yet, sometimes our love for the restoration wins over the problems it can cause.

 

 

So, if you’re hoping to start working on a new-to-you classic and muscle car in the near future, here are a couple of areas you’ll want to pay attention to during the restoration process.

 

---

Frame & Body

 

When you’re starting to restore your classic or muscle car, the first thing to consider is the condition of the frame and body to make sure it is as rust-free as possible and still a solid car.

 

You really don’t want any surprises.

 

I once had a customer bring me a car and as we got into the project we found that the person who worked on the car before-hand used 11 license plates to fill in a hole in the body.

 

Ensure that the vehicle is as solid as it can be…

 

---

Engine

It’s hard to know what a car has been through with out-and-out certainty.

 

A previous owner might not have taken good care of this car, so be very cautious when you check the engine. Check all of the fluids and put the car through rigorous tests.

 

New, complete engine packages are often the best way to go for a restoration project.

 

---

Upholstery and Paint Job

 

There are lots of great tutorials out there in Florida how to make simple repairs yourself, and sometimes a spanking paint job can breathe new life into a classic and muscle car.

 

But high quality paint work needs to be done by a professional.

 

 

 

People who have a little bit of time, money, and determination will most likely find restoring cars – especially classic and muscle cars – to be a lot of fun.

 

Read the above points cautiously to make yourself prepare for you next classic and muscle cars purchase in Florida.

 

 

 

If you need help with your restoration project, please check out our restoration services page to learn more about us or get in touch with us to work with us

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Keep Rust from Attacking Your Classic Car

JohnAuto Body Tips, Body and Paint, Classic Car Restoration, Muscle Car Restoration, New Car Builds, Tech TipsApril 6, 20172 Comments

Hate Rust? Here’s How to Keep Your Classic Car from Rusting

 

If you’re a classic car lover then this article should help you…

 

Unlike many of the new cars in production currently, some of which have the bodies and metal parts dipped a zinc-coating or anti-corrosion primers… One of the best car manufacturers out there for protecting the bodies is Porsche. They were way ahead of the curve.

 

Unfortunately the classic and muscle cars, when they were built back in the day by the Big 3, they used very little sealer and virtually no paint on the undersides.

 

Below is how to keep your envy-inspiring dream machine from, slowly but surely, turning into a rust bucket:

 

 

First of all, if you are just building and restoring a car, then you are going to be able to take different steps than someone who already owns a complete car.

 

 

These steps are if you are building a car and what to do as you are building it to prevent it from rusting away due to moisture.

 

Below you will see my weapons in the war against rust when I restore a classic or muscle car:

 

 

• PPG DP90 Epoxy

 

PPG makes an awesome product that has been out for a long time. When we do media blasting on the frames and the underside of the bodies, DP90 is a nice Epoxy Primer that comes in black which is awesome for the chassis and steel bodies. This would be my first line of defense. Of course then at that point, it will be refinished in whatever color we are shooting the chassis and undersides.

 

• Debeer Primer

The Debeer Primer is the best I've seen in 34 years. We started using this primer about 10 years ago. What turned me onto it was that it was a very heavy, high-build primer that came in black, white, and buff. Most high-end automotive finish paint companies don't offer high-solids urethane black primer (which is absolutely necessary if you plan on having your high-end job laser straight after body work).

 

• 3M Bare Metal Seam Sealer & 3M Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer

 

 

The 3M bare metal seam sealer is, believe it or not, on the 64-70 Ford Mustangs and the 67-69 Camaros, the factory did horrible with sealing the cars. This let water come in from the inside and from underneath. We use the 3M bare metal seam sealer in certain areas and then we use the heavy bodied seam sealer where were are filling big voids.

 

• RusFre (brand) Clear Inner Panel Undercoating

This is really good stuff to shoot inside:

• Inner panels
• Doors
• Inside Quarter Panels
• Inner Front Fenders
• Inside Wheel Wells
• Inside Rocker Panels
• Even Inside Frame Rails

 

This is basically like the old war days when they used to shoot the cosmoline on the military Jeeps so that they wouldn't rust on the transport ships overseas.

 

 

Pay Careful Attention to Underside and Wheel Areas.

 

Due to the accumulation of mud, sand, road salt, and everything else on the road - rust is likely to target your classic car’s underside and wheel areas. Pay special attention to these spots.

 

Also, be careful when using a high-pressure washer, as these can remove the protective under seal.

 

We suggest rinsing out your cars when you get them dirty and make sure to keep dirt out of the wheel wells. You can even use a blow-gun to blow-dry the car when you're done to remove the water from behind the stainless moldings and whatnot.

 

 

I'm sure everyone has heard of the Mother's Spray mist where if the cars not dirty just give it a little mist and wipe it down. This keeps your car dry.

 

 

The smartest and best way you can keep your classic car looking and running beautifully for years to come is by befriending with a classic car restoration specialist in Florida.

 

You’ll get the expert advice you need to keep rust and other threats at bay.

 

And just as importantly, you can be assured that you’ll be supported by a team that cares as much about classic cars as you do.

 

 

 

 

If you’ve landed yourself a car that needs a tetanus shot – check out our new replacement steel bodies and chassis. Sometimes getting a new body is the best way to go.

 

 

 

If you've landed yourself a rot box Click Here to Learn More About Steel Body Replacements for your Classic and Muscle car restoration.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Charlie Bruni’s Ford F-350 Truck Restoration Project

JohnCustom Paint, Latest Projects, Tech TipsOctober 24, 20160 Comment

Ford Truck Restoration Project at Palm Beach Customs

 

 

 

This is a rarity these days in the shop – a truck restoration project on a “new” truck! But we could not say know to restoring Charlie Bruni’s F-350.

 

First off – what I love about working with people in my business you get to meet great people!

A few years ago when I was running my shop in Fort Myers, FL Charlie contacted me about getting his Ford truck cleaned up and installing a Reflex Spray-on Bedliner. The F350 was about 10 years old at the time so we did some touch up and sprayed a Bedliner as well as a few upgrades…

Now Fast forward 4 -5 years and Charlie and I had kept in touch and the truck was approaching 14 years old. 

Still loving his truck Charlie Decided it was time to start the  F-350 Truck Restoration Project.

 

(I actually thought it would be smart to put the paint formula in the post we keep a record in the clients folder for color match purpose however thinking when a reader sees a cool color on one of our complete projects now the color code will be there for reference)

 

 

 

See Charlie Bruni’s Ford F-350 Truck Restoration Project 

 

Keep in mind I set this blog up in reverse as you scroll and read its starting from the end to the beginning. 

Here is a video walk around just about on the last day when we had completed all buffing and assembly...

 

The original color on the 2003 ford F-350 is called Sonic Blue its really a sharp color with loads of liquid pearl in the mix

 

 

Little pricey - I believe it was $647 per gallon for the color -  we stripped the hood and roof and re-primed with high build Debeer Black urethane primer.

 

 

---

 

How much Paint do you think it takes to spray a full size truck ?

We are known for not cheating on the materials its the same as when you order a Sub (or grinder) for all us northern folks ... hahah you want some meat between the bun!

 

 

OK here is the list we used on Charlie Bruni's Ford F-350 Restoration Project

 

• Debeer primer 3 quarts

 

• Sonic blue Pearl  blue base coat 1.5 gallons

 

• High Solids urethane Clear 2 gallons

 

• Catalyst for the clear 3 quarts

 

• reducer for base coat 1.5 gallons

 

• reducer and catalyst for primer 2 quarts

 

• 1 gallon of wax and grease remover

 

• Total liquids 6.25 Gallons 

 

 

 

 

As you can see we sprayed the Spray on Liner material on the bumpers and the lower 10 inches of the truck

 

 

In this picture we use the 2 post lift to set the bed down on the frame using all new bed bolts and applying never-seize ( by permatex ) to all J nuts.

Ford used the J- nuts and realistically If you were from the upper 50 states the Insurance adjusters would always pay for a new set of bed bolts knowing that they were a one shot deal ( however if  the Factory had used never-seize ) that would not be the case.

 

 

This Video I show exactly how we prep Before wet sanding and Buffing the finish begins

 

 

 

 

On the F-350 Truck Restoration  Project

It only made sense to pull the front windshield and after paint my Friends from Accurate Auto Glass Installed  a fresh New windshield, not only does this give 100% visibility its important to remove before paint as well as the window belt moldings  and door handles for the doors.

 

 

 

Quick video showing exactly what materials we use for our ultra fine & buffing...

 

 

 

 

Below the hood is in primer ready for block sanding...

Charlie wanted the rims Blacked out so we prepped and refinished using satin clear coat

 

 

Below is the color code we save with the clients shop folder but this way if a reader likes a color the code will be with the posts 

 

 

 

 

Below we have the lost but not forgotten Honoring our Fallen heroes 

Charlie is actually a retired Colorado Police officer 

 

 

 

I wanted to ad a twist For this Ford truck had way to many Ford emblems  

4 in fact..

A little much don't you think?

So we took the front ford emblem and customizing the bezel with The Palm Beach Logo 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is what charlie had to say when I dropped his truck off 🙂 

 

Great guy I really enjoyed the F-350 Truck Restoration Project

Thanks for Checking out Charlie Bruni's Ford F-350 Restoration Project

Feel Free to Like comment and share

<here is a Cool Project Jeep CJ you just might like >

.

.
.

1955 Chevrolet Hot Rod Build

JohnAuto Body Tips, Classic Car Restoration, Latest Projects, Metal Work, New Car Builds, RestorationDecember 12, 20150 Comment

 

The 1955 Chevrolet Hot Rod Build Part # 1

Starts out with a good solid 4door with zero  rust ,this happens to be a low milage car

from Bakersfield California we chose for the donor car .

 

 

                   Once in a while a good candidate will show up they are getting few and far in-between 

 

 

This gives you a clear picture

How one can convert a 1955 4 door car into a 2 door

My choice is to buy 2 new full 2-door quarter panels and 2 New full doors for a 2 door and go with all new sheetmetal it adds about 2000$ to the project cost but gives for a much better job .

Source Gm

It doesn’t get any better than this !  Art Morison takes us out of the 50s and directly into the new age with his custom built chassis.

set up to grip the road and set the power of 550hp to the street .

 

Here is a good look at the custom 4 link suspension . Chevrolet built a very hefty frame from the factory but originally set up with a lumbering leaf spring with any kind of real horsepower ..Parts were breaking rear end housings were twisting .. and fun was over real fast !

Art Morrison 4 link 

 

 

 

This gives you a clear picture of where we are going with this build we borrowed this shot from our fellow friends from hot Rod until we dig into to The 1955 Chevrolet Hot Rod Build

source 

 

More cool rides coming if you enjoyed this post please share and comment

On the bottom of the blog when you log in J

 

Hot Rods, Customs Classic Cars, Race Cars, Vintage Cars, Hotrods old American cars Sports cars

Pre War cars muscle cars rat rods classic, vintage, and unique vehicles at @

Http://PalmBeachCustoms.com

Make sure you join our daily finds email, never miss a rare find again.

Http://Facebook.com/PalmBeachCustoms

 

 

Regards

John Russo

239.281.6754

445 Ne 28^th St. Ocala Fl. 34470

.
.
Get More Restoration Info
.
.